In the year just passed I seem to have excelled in the new skill of attracting bad weather 🙂 Putting this new ability to full use I masterfully scheduled our latest climbing trip to Kyparissi to coincide with four days of the most severe, crap ridden, filthy weather experienced in the Peloponnese since last winter. More joyfully, I timed our trip exactly between two weeks of perfect Spring-reminiscent weather. This was meant to be a New Year’s holiday, so I am sure other people shared the same thrilling weather experience. Nicely done God and nicely done me! 🙂

But hey! Despite these calamities, this was probably one of the best climbing trips I had in years, so let me write a couple of lines about what I have seen of this new climbing destination.

This was my first trip ever to Kyparissi. The place has been circulating as a rumor for many years but came finally in the climbing spotlight (the Greek climbing spotlight at least) only last October with the climbing festival and all. Soon after that, it kinda fell out of the radar again. But that’s probably because it’s more of a Summer-Spring-Autumn destination. I am pretty sure we will read a lot more about it in the coming years as from what I hear the bolting of the crags is ongoing.

There is not much new to say about the place apart from what is already circulating. Kyparissi is really, REALLY amazing. The place is secluded and beautiful, the surrounding nature is spectacular and as scenic as it gets, and the rock is top notch. In addition the locals (and most importantly the local authorities) are friendly disposed towards climbing. Everything looks great. So can Kyparissi live up to the hype and be the next big thing in Greek or even European sport climbing?

I would not risk to make a prediction about it. But there’s a thing called Babala and its not a Greek media /construction overlord.

Babala

Babala is the juggernaut of Kyparissi climbing and it really is a freaking awesome crag. Located up in the highlands above the little village and the turquoise sea, this is one the most spectacular cliffs I have ever seen. Babala is an extensive 500m (?) long limestone tsunami rising abruptly 50m above a narrow deck. It swarms with crazy tufa anacondas amidst blind walls. It is big, it is spectacular and at places it is fucking intimidating to behold. Potential here is huge and the 30 lines already existing are just a very VERY SMALL sample for what is possible. On a bonus side, the location is prime and view from up there is breathtaking.

The “problem” with Babala is that the crag seems to hold little potential for easy or even moderate lines (by that I mean worthwhile lines – not forced short half lines). This shortage essentially decreases the crag’s reach to the handful of climbers pulling on the French 8th grade and above. So the question is: Are there enough 8a and above climbers/crag developers in Greece to drive the development of Babala into a new Oliana? I am almost sure there are not. So then the question becomes: Will the rest of the world notice and become interested enough to drive its development? And more, even if the climbing world do take notice and the strong climbers come in Babala searching for their climbing Graal, eager to bolt and send super hard lines, are these climbers the same lot targeted by the tourist development programs which fuel the climbing development in the area at the moment?

I doubt it. Hardcore crags are developed by hardcore climbers and usually these climbers are less commercially capable (read: dirtbags) to be of interest to the local money pouring development programs. Tourist development targets well-put families and leisure climbers/ consumers rather than dedicated monk style athletes and crimp junkies.

So to the best of my limited knowledge there might be a mismatch of interest between what the tourist development aim for and what lies on offer in Babala. That might not be necessarily a bad thing. Personally I maintain the romantic viewpoint that route setting shall be an act of creativity, inspiration and passion. It always feels to me a bit weird when it becomes sub-contracted. Therefore this might not be the time for Babala to unleash its potential.

But then, I might be entirely wrong. Remains to be seen what the future holds…

Sidenote: Many visitors also quote as a problem the long uphill walking required to reach Babala. I stubbornly refuse to acknowledge this despite my own bitching about it as I dragged my sorry ass along the approach footpath. The point is that if this crag ever develops to its full potential, people would eagerly travel from all over the globe to climb here. A mere one hour access (45min for the swiftly footed) will not phase anyone lusting to pull those superb tufas. Just look at Céüse. When climbing is good, long access does not avert climbers. Or so I wish to believe…

Neromylos and beyond

Save for Babala, the most important crag in Kyparissi at the moment, and the place where almost every visitor starts with, is Neromylos. You will find some great tufa lines here along with a selection of easier grey walls. The crag is zero access which means good for frivolous weather days or short stays. In the unfavourable conditions prevailing during our trip, this crag is where we have spend most of our time.

At the time of our visit, conditions on the other two published crags, Psilovrachos and Jerome’s House were mostly reminding of Patagonia with snow cover, stormy winds and subzero temperatures. So we left them be for the more driven and skilled for such terrains (side note: well done Panos!).

As for Kastraki crag, we just visited it, but not climbed there as we didn’t find the lines that inspiring. Climbing could actually prove us wrong, but from what I have seen I would not encourage anyone to travel to Kyparissi just for Kastraki’s own shake.

My impression was that Kastraki is the equivalent of the internet “click bait” for a climbing destination. You can call it a “F6 bait”. F6 bait is a crag with lines graded between 5a and 6c, established not as a result of natural potential or inspiration by the route setter but instead as an attraction to lure climbing tourists and climbing schools. With so much superb rock around, in my opinion, it is a pity to spend effort and time for F6 baits in Kyparissi area.

Parting Info:

There is a very well made free topo by Aris Theodoropoulos which you can download here. All the information you need for climbing in Kyparissi can be found in this mini guide.

For accommodation we stayed at Cavo Kortia, a great place with nice rooms and the best home-made food you can hope for anywhere in the area. Run by a very friendly family, it is highly recommended.